Smoke and Cream
As its name might suggest, slow-smoked barbecue options and small-batch ice creams are the stars of the menu at Smoke and Cream (44 Market St., Somersworth, 841-5901, smokeandcreamnh.com), an eatery offering everything from traditional Texas-style pulled pork and beef brisket plates to more creatively inspired items like smoked deviled eggs. In addition to the ice creams, which are all made in house, the menu includes various Southern treats like banana pudding and pecan pie. Owner and founder Tristan Maher, who previously served as the executive chef at Jonathan’s in Ogunquit, Maine, has Southern roots. “I’ve always enjoyed barbecue,” said Maher, who has grandparents hailing from Kentucky and Georgia, “so when this opportunity presented itself and this space became available, it just seemed like it would be really good for the area at the time.” The Scene recently caught up with Maher to talk about Smoke and Cream’s unique concept of pairing barbecue meats and ice cream and some of his must-try recommendations for the next time you visit.
How long has Smoke and Cream been around?
It will be four years this July, so our four-year anniversary is actually coming up. July 2018 was when we started. … We’ve done whole pig roasts in the past for our anniversary parties, but I think this year we’re going to do a New Orleans-themed crawfish boil.
What is your personal favorite thing on your menu?
We have a unique appetizer on our menu that’s called a five-way chili. It’s a little bit more like a casserole. … It’s layered, with macaroni and cheese at the base, and then it’s got our brisket chili in there; it’s got some of our pinto beans; and then it’s topped with barbecue sauce, melted cheese and finished with some chopped onions. If I’m getting a hankering to eat something, I’ll usually make that for myself.
What is an essential skill to running a restaurant?
The biggest thing is treating your staff like family, respecting them and earning their respect by working hard.
What makes Smoke and Cream unique?
Just pairing ice cream and barbecue is kind of unique. I mean, there are not a lot of places that do that. … The most unique thing about our barbecue is that … we made a point when we opened that we didn’t want to bring in any sort of wood that isn’t natural to New Hampshire. … It’s a Texas-style [barbecue] for the process and the rubs and the meats that we’re using, but our flavor is slightly different because we’re using local New Hampshire wood.
What is something everyone should try?
I mean, if you’re going for the meats, it’s brisket and ribs that are the kings. We sell the most of those out of all of the meats. … As far as our ice creams, we make a blueberry white chocolate chip ice cream with local Maine blueberries that’s really good. I’m also a sucker for a good old-fashioned banana pudding, and we make that with fresh bananas, whipped cream and vanilla wafers, just like it should be.
What celebrity would you like to have seen eating at Smoke and Cream?
To be honest with you, I’d have liked Robin Williams to come in here.
What is your favorite thing about being on the Seacoast?
It’s such a great destination type of place. There is so much to do here with the seasons, and there’s a vibrant food scene from Portland, Maine, all the way down [the coast].
— Matt Ingersoll
Blueberry white chocolate chip ice cream. Courtesy photo.
